H Lignier Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots 2023

The Ligniers own just under half a hectare of vines planted in 1968 in this great premier cru, which sits just above Clos-Saint-Denis on the slope. “Les Chaffots” is the muscular, brooding counterpart to the more elegant “La Riotte” above, offering an immensity of structure and ruggedness of fruit that allows the wine to age effortlessly for decades. It is even more profoundly mineral-driven than “La Riotte,” with a deeper register to its spicy, meaty aromas, and an almost shocking intensity and concentration on the palate. This is rich and broad, but still amazingly graceful—beautifully “old-school” in its demeanor.