AITIA Gewürztraminer Estate Columbia Gorge 2022

This dry Gewürztraminer comes from AITIA, Laura Brennan Bissell’s project on Underwood Mountain, on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. Her vineyard sits at 1,700 feet, one of the highest sites in the area, where the short, cool growing season gives white wines bright acidity and restrained alcohol.

The vines grow on their own roots in volcanic soil. They are dry-farmed and organic, with no tilling and wild cover crops between the rows. The grapes are picked by hand, fermented with native yeast and aged in neutral oak. Grapefruit peel and rose petal lead on the nose, and the palate is crisp and structured rather than heavy or perfumed.

Pour it for anyone who thinks Gewürztraminer is always sweet. It’s great with Thai curries, spiced pork or a plate of washed-rind cheeses.