Podere Le Boncie, Rosso di Toscana 'Chiesamonti' 2023

A red of rare finesse from one of Chianti Classico's most revered small growers, Podere Le Boncie's Rosso di Toscana 'Chiesamonti' 2023 is a single-parcel Sangiovese that critics place right alongside, and in this vintage arguably above, the estate's celebrated flagship.

Podere Le Boncie is the tiny estate of Giovanna Morganti, who farms three hectares at San Felice, in the southern Castelnuovo Berardenga end of Chianti Classico, on clay-limestone and at very high vine density. Her approach is deliberately hands-off, with indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtering, and minimal sulfites added only at bottling. She left the Chianti Classico DOCG years ago, so the wine carries the simple Rosso di Toscana label, and allocations remain famously scarce. Chiesamonti itself is a 1.3-hectare parcel beside San Felice with stonier, less clay-rich soil than her home vineyard; its fruit once went into the 'Cinque' blend before earning its own bottling in 2018. Nearly all Sangiovese with a touch of Canaiolo, it ages two years in Stockinger barrels. 

In the glass it shows a bright, translucent ruby. The 2023 is especially compelling, with Vinous noting it has more depth, energy and structure than Le Trame in this vintage. Aromas of crushed rocks, slate, mint, blood orange and white pepper lead to a taut, mineral palate where firm but seamlessly integrated tannins frame a long, vibrant finish. Compared with its sister wine, Chiesamonti is silkier, more high-toned and prettier, with a more pronounced mineral core and less fleshy fruit. 

A 94-point gem from a cult producer, this is Sangiovese at its most transparent, energetic, and soulful, and well worth seeking out.